Saturday, February 28, 2009

Watermelons

Common Garden Mistakes

How to Grow Sunflowers

Seedling Guide from Mulhalls Nursery in Omaha, NE

Starting Plants from Seeds
Growing plants from seeds started indoors can be rewarding and cost effective. Many annuals, perennials, vegetables and herbs can be started 6 to 12 weeks prior to planting in the garden. Do not attempt to save seeds from hybrid plants you may have grown in your garden. The results will be disappointing in quality, color, and size of bloom or fruit.

Containers for Sowing Seeds
Containers for starting seeds should be clean, sturdy, and fit into the space available for growing plants in the home.
Clay and plastic pots are both excellent for growing transplants. Seeds may be planted directly into them.

Peat pots: These popular pots are made from peat or paper waste fibers. They are porous, and provide excellent drainage and air movement. The entire pot can be planted, so there is minimum root disturbance at planting time.

Compressed Peat Pellets: Expandable Jiffy 7 peat pellets are about the size of a silver dollar, but somewhat thicker. When placed in water, they swell to form a cylindrical container filled with peat moss, ready for seeding or transplanting. Use the pellets in trays so that they are easily watered and held upright. After plants are hardened off , peat pellets can be planted direcctly into the garden.


Soil Mixes and Other Growing MediaThe medium used for starting seed should be loose, well drained, and of fine texture.
Milled Sphagnum Moss: Can be used by itself or as top dressing to cut down on damping off.


Growing SeedlingsAfter seeds have germinated, they must be promptly given the best possible growing conditions to ensure stocky vigorous plants for outdoor planting. Cultural requirements must be considered carefully.
Light: After germination seedlings must receive bright light. Place them in a bright, south window if possible. If a large, bright window is not available, place the flats under fluorescent or grow lights. Place the seedlings about 6 inches from the tubes, and keep lights on for 14 to 16 hours each day. As seedlings grow, the light fixture may need to be raised to prevent leaf burn.

Temperature: Most annual plants and vegetables prefer night temperatures between 60 and 65ºF. Day temperatures may run about 10 degrees higher. If temperatures are warmer than this, leggy plants result. Cool season vegetable crops and a few flowers prefer night temperatures no higher than 55ºF, and day temperatures near 65.

Moisture and watering
: Keep plants consistantly moist by misting and watering but never wet.

Fertilization: Seedlings planted in soil free mixes need prompt and regular fertilization. Use a soluble plant fertilizer. Young, tender seedlings are easily damaged by too much fertilzer. Apply fertilizer at about half of the recommended rate a few days after seedlings have germinated. After that, fertilize at 2-week intervals with the dilution recommended by the manufacturer.

Damping Off: When seedlings fall over at the soil line, they are being attacked by a fungus disease known as Damping-off. If only a few seedlings are attacked, dig out and discard the infected plants. Drench the entire soil mass with a fungicide solution, mixed according to the directions on the label. High temperature, poor light and excess moisture weaken plants and stimulate the spread of the disease. The best control is cleanliness and prompt action when the disease appears.


Moving Plants Outdoors-Hardening Off
Plants which have been growing indoors cannot be planted abruptly into the garden without injury. To prevent any damage, seedlings should be hardened off before planting outdoors.
This process should be started at least 2 weeks before planting into the garden. If possible, plants should be moved to cooler temperatures outdoors in a shady location. A cold-frame is excellent for this purpose. When first put outdoors, keep plants in the shade, but gradually move them into sunlight for short periods each day. Gradually increase the length of exposure. Do not put tender seedlings outdoors on windy days, or when temperatures are below 55ºF. Reduce the frequency of watering to slow growth but don't allow plants to wilt. Even cold hardy plants such as cabbage and pansies will be hurt if exposed to freezing temperatures before they have hardened off. After proper hardening, however, they can be planted outdoors, and light frosts will not damage them.

Thursday, February 26, 2009

Preparing the Ground where grass is growing

Great Seed Starting Video

Seed Starting

How to Create Seed-Starting Pots from Newspaper

Zinnia

Zinnia elegans (Zinnia) - Planting: Sow outdoors after last frost just beneath the surface of the soil. Seeds will germinate in 5-24 days. Zinnias prefer full sun and well-drained average soil.

Seed Saving: Zinnias will cross-pollinate. Gardeners should only grow one variety at a time to save pure seed, or isolate varieties by ¼ mile. Seeds are ready to harvest when the blooms begin to turn brown and dry. The seeds are contained in the very center. When the heads are completely dry, gently crush the heads between your hand and then carefully winnow away the chaff.

Marigold

Tagetes patula/tenuifolia (Marigold) - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors 2 weeks before the last frost. Plant the seeds just beneath the surface of the soil. Seeds will germinate in 4-10 days. Marigolds prefer full sun (may need light shade in extremely warm areas) and a well-balanced slightly dry soil.

Seed Saving: Marigolds will produce lots of seed in a similar fashion to a Zinnia or Calendula. When the blooms dry out, cut them off and hang upside down in bunches. The seeds are contained in the heads and, once dry and crisp, can be lightly hand-crushed and winnowed from the seed chaff.

Black-eyed Susan

Rudbeckia hirta (Black-Eyed Susan) - Planting: Sow indoors just beneath the surface of the soil 6-8 weeks before last frost. Seeds will germinate in 5-21 days. Transplant when the danger of frost is past. Black-Eyed Susan prefers average well-drained soil and full sun to partial shade. Biennial or hardy annual.

Seed Saving: Seeds are ready to harvest when the blooms begin to turn brown and dry. When the heads are completely dry, gently crush the heads between your hand and then carefully winnow away the chaff.

Parsley

Pimpinellu anisum (Parsley)- Planting: Sow seeds outdoors ¼ " deep when there is still a chance of light frost. Can also be started earlier and set out as small plants. Seeds germinate in 14-21 days. Seeds can be soaked in warm water for 24 hours before planting. Prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained, rich soil.

Seed Saving: Parsleys will cross-pollinate, so isolate by 1 mile the second year when going to seed. Dig up parsley roots in the fall before a hard frost. Trim the tops to 2" and store in sawdust, sand or leaves. Parsley roots will store 3-4 months when kept between 32-40° F. Plant out in the early spring. Harvest seed heads when dry, and separate by hand.

Basil

Ocimum basilicum (Basil) - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors when the soil is warm and the temperature does not drop below 65° F. Can be started indoors 4-6 weeks before planting out. Space plants 4-6" apart in all directions. Plant seeds just beneath the surface. Seeds germinate in 5-30 days, so keep moist. Prefers full sun and rich, well- drained soil.

Seed Saving: Basil will cross-pollinate with other varieties of basil and must be separated by 150' while flowering. Plants form seed capsules containing four seeds. Allow seed capsules to dry, then harvest and separate by hand.

Spearmint

Mentha viridis (Spearmint) - Planting: Sow seeds indoors just beneath the surface of the soil 4-6 weeks before last frost. Can be directly sown outdoors just before the last spring frost. Seeds will germinate in 7-10 days. Plant out into full or partial shade, after the danger of frost has passed in late spring. Prefers average, well-drained soil and will tolerate dry conditions.

Seed Saving: Seeds are ready to harvest when the blooms begin to turn brown and dry. When the heads are completely dry, gently crush the heads between your hands and then carefully winnow away the chaff from the seeds.

Sunflowers

Helianthus annuus & cucumerifolius (Sunflowers) - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors ½" deep and 6" apart in rows 24-36" apart after the last frost. Successive plantings will provide continual blooms throughout the summer. Seeds germinate in 10-14 days. Prefers full sun to light shade and well-drained rich soil.

Saving Seed: Sunflowers will cross-pollinate and must be separated by ½ mile to ensure pure seed. Harvest the heads when they have completely filled out, lost all of their petals and the backs begin to turn brown. It may be necessary to cover heads to protect them from birds. Allow to dry in a protected area away from birds and then shell by hand.

Cosmos

Cosmos sulphureus - Planting: Sow outdoors 1/8” deep after last frost or indoors 4-5 weeks before last frost. Seeds will germinate in 3-10 days. Prefers full sun and poor soil.

Hollyhock

Althaea rosea (Hollyhock) - Planting: Sow outdoors just beneath the sur¬face of the soil one week before last frost. Seeds germinate in 10-14 days. Space plants 18” to 36” apart. Prefers full sun to partial shade and rich, moist soil.

Watermelon

Watermelons - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors after the danger of frost. Minimum soil temperature should be at least 65º F. Plant seeds ½" deep and 2" apart, in rows 20-24" apart. Thin seedlings to one every 12". Excellent grown on black landscape cloth.

Saving Seed: Watermelons will cross-pollinate. Separate varieties by ¼ mile or hand-pollinate. Always select disease-free early maturing melons to save for seed. Remove seeds from ripe melons, thoroughly wash in a strainer and dry.

Tomato

Tomato - Planting: Sow indoors ¼" deep in pots or flats 6 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when 2" tall and transplant into individual pots. Plant outdoors 24" apart in rows 36" apart. Indeterminate vines will require support.

Saving Seed: Cross-pollination between modern tomato varieties seldom occurs, except in potato leaf varieties which should be separated by the length of the garden. Do not save seeds from double fruits or from the first fruits of large-fruited varieties. Pick at least one ripe fruit from each of several plants. Squeeze seeds and juice into a strainer and wash, spread on a paper plate and dry.

sunberry

Sunberry - Planting: Sow indoors ¼” deep in pots or flats 6 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when 2” tall and transplant into individual pots. Plant outdoors 24” apart in rows 36” apart.

Saving Seed: Take ripe fruits and crush them in a bowl. Add water to the bowl and the seeds will sink and the skin and pulp will float. Separate the contents and wash the seeds in a strainer. Allow seeds to dry.

squash

Squash - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has passed. Plant 6-8 seeds 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way. Pinch off all but 3-4 of the strongest seedlings.

Saving Seed: Squash within the same species will cross-pollinate, so isolate species by ¼ mile. Seeds should be taken from fruits that have gone past maturity by 3 weeks. Remove seeds, wash and let dry. (Note: There are four species of squash: C. maxima, C. mixta, C. moschata and C. pepo. This allows you to grow four different species of squash and save pure seed in the same garden.)

spinach

Spinach - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors ½" deep and 1" apart. Spinach grows best in cool weather and should be planted early in the spring or in late summer to produce a fall crop. For best yield, harvest continually and make successive plantings every 10 days.

Saving Seed: Spinach will cross-pollinate with wind-blown pollen from other spinach varieties. Commercial seed crops are separated by 5-10 miles to ensure purity, but home gardeners can reduce that distance. Harvest seeds when they are completely dry on the plant. It may be necessary to wear leather gloves because the seeds can be very prickly.

peppers

Peppers - Planting: Start seedlings indoors 8 weeks before transplanting. Sow seeds ¼" deep. Keep soil moist and near 80° F. using bottom heat. Peppers may take two weeks to germinate. Transplant outdoors when daytime soil temperatures are near 80° F. and nighttime temperatures are above 50° F.

Saving Seed: Peppers will cross-pollinate, so separate by at least 500' or plant in insect-proof cages covered with window screen. Select peppers that are ripe, fully colored and show no signs of disease to save for seed. Remove seeds off core and place on a paper plate to dry.

onion

Onion - Planting: Start seedlings indoors 4-6 weeks before transplanting. Sow seeds in flats ¼" deep and spaced 1" in all directions. Transplant as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring.

Seed Saving: Biennial. Onions cross-pollinate and should be isolated by 1 mile from other onions going to seed. Select only the best bulbs for seed. Bulbs store 3-6 months at 32-45° F. Plant out bulbs in early spring and allow them to form seed heads. When the heads start to dry, cut off, dry further and thresh.

Melons

Melons - Planting: Best when direct seeded in warm soil after the danger of frost has passed. Plant 6-8 seeds 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way. After germination pinch off all but 3-4 of the strongest seedlings.

Saving Seed: Melons will cross-pollinate, so isolate ¼ mile from other “melons” (cantaloupes, muskmelons, honeydew, snake melon and Armenian cucumbers will all cross). Always save seeds from disease-free, early ripening melons. Wash seeds from ripe melons in a strainer and dry. Seeds are ready to store when they break instead of bend.

Cucumbers

Cucumbers - Planting: Sow 6-8 seeds outdoors 1" deep in 12" diameter hills spaced 6' apart each way a week after the last frost when soil is warm. Pinch off all but 3-4 of the strongest seedlings. Can be started indoors in pots or flats 3-4 weeks before the last frost for an earlier harvest.

Saving Seed: Cucumbers will cross-pollinate, so isolate ¼ mile from other cucumbers. Fruits for seed should ripen past edible stage and begin to soften and turn yellow. Cut lengthwise, scoop out seeds, wash clean and dry. Seeds are dry when they break instead of bending.

Carrots

Carrots - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors in the early spring 3-4 weeks before the last frost or as soon as the soil can be worked. Sow seeds ¼” deep making sure to firmly press soil against the seeds for good soil contact. Keep moist for optimal germination. Thin to 1-4” depending on the size of mature carrots.

Saving Seed: Biennial. Carrots will cross-pollinate, so isolate ¼ mile from other carrots and Queen Anne’s Lace the second year when going to seed. Dig up carrots in the fall before a hard frost. Trim the tops to 1” and store roots in slightly damp sawdust, sand or leaves in a root cellar over the winter. Replant in the spring and harvest seed heads when dry.

Broccoli

Broccoli - Planting: Sow indoors ¼" deep in pots or flats 8 weeks before the last frost. Thin seedlings when 2" tall and transplant into individual pots. Plant outdoors 24" apart in rows 36" apart when a light frost is still possible.

Saving Seed: Biennial. Broccoli will cross-pollinate with all other Brassica oleracea, so isolate by 1 mile the second year when going to seed. Do not harvest heads on plants you intend to save for seed. Carefully dig the plants and pot them in sand. Store plants between 32-40° F. Plant back out in early spring and allow to bolt. Harvest seed pods when dry and clean by hand.

Beans

Beans - Planting: Sow seeds outdoors after the danger of frost has past and the soil and air temperatures are warm. Plant seeds 1" deep and 2" apart in rows 24" to 36" apart. Pole beans will need support. Snap varieties will produce abundantly if kept well picked throughout the summer.

Saving Seed: Bean flowers are self-pollinating and almost never cross-pollinate. As a precaution never plant two white seeded varieties side-by-side if you intend to save seed because crossing may occur but not be visible. It is always best to save seed from plants that ripen first and are free from disease. Harvest seed pods when completely dry, crush in a cloth or burlap sack and winnow the seeds from the chaff.